Visit Australia: The UN-Official Guide

Australia is the largest island in the world and a continent to itself. Before European settlement, it was inhabited by the Aborigines (or Kooris) for some 42,000 years. It was first visited by the Dutch in the 17th century and later colonized by the British in the 18th century. The arrival of the Europeans resulted in a dramatic upheaval in the Koori way of life, such that Australians have found fit to establish a National Sorry Day in remembrance of their past mistreatment of the indigenous peoples.

Although Australia is the sixth largest country, 90% of the population live along the coastal regions. The bulk of Australia is characterized by vast, barren deserts in the interior – what many affectionately term the “Outback” – where you’ll find blue skies, reddish-brown dirt, sandstone peaks and gorges, mountain ranges like the MacDonnell, and even some meteor impact craters. The Outback is also home to a bizarre set of wildlife, including dingoes, Australian feral camels, emus and, of course, the beloved red kangaroos. Not all of Australia, however, is arid and desert-like. Tropical rainforests and waterfalls dominate the Wet Tropics of Queensland in the northeast, and beaches envelop the entire Australian eastern coast – the northeast of which lies the Great Barrier Reef.

Australia has a reputation for being a land of leisure, where people laze around in the beaches all day basking in the warmth of the sun – at least that is what tourists love to do in the “land down under”. Those who love tanning, swimming, surfing, scuba diving, and snorkeling flock to the beaches of Australia every year.

But there is more to Australia than beach bumming. There are some fascinating geological sites in Australia like the Ayers Rock (or Uluru). It is a large sandstone rock formation in central Australia, about 300 kilometers southwest of Alice Springs. Its name means “island mountain” because the formation rises 350 meters high and is truly an island in that it is surrounded by an expanse of flat desert land. The formation also appears to change color as different light strikes it at different times during the day. The rock features caves, springs, and ancient paintings and markings.

Also popularly visited is the Great Barrier Reef in northeastern Australia, where scuba diving, snorkeling, boat touring, and cruising are oft-engaged activities. The Great Barrier Reef is the world’s largest coral reef system, so large that it can be seen from outer space. Named one of the seven natural wonders of the world, the reef stretches more than 1,600 miles and is home to a number of endangered and vulnerable species.

Other favorite Australian destinations include Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Canberra, Perth, Darwin, Alice Springs, Hobart, Launceston, and New South Wales. If you’re into Koalas and hope to catch a glimpse of these cute cuddly marsupials, they are found in Adelaide and all along the eastern coast up to Cairns and the Cape York Peninsula.

The 2000 Olympics were a coming-of-age ceremony for  SYDNEY. The impact on the city was all-embracing, with fifty years’ worth of development compressed into four years under the pressure of intense international scrutiny. Transport infrastructure was greatly improved and a rash of luxury hotels and waterside apartments added themselves to the skyline. The City of Sydney Council spent $200 million to improve and beautify the city streets, public squares and parks, and licensing laws changed too, creating a European-style bar culture. Sydney now has all the vigour of a world-class city, with the reputation of its restaurants in particular turning the lingering cultural sneers to swoons. It seems to have the best of both worlds – twenty minutes from Circular Quay by bus, the high-rise office buildings and skyscrapers give way to colourful inner-city suburbs where you can get an eyeful of sky and watch the lemons ripening above the sidewalk, while to the centre’s north and south are corridors of largely intact bushland where many have built their dream homes. During every heatwave, however, bushfires threaten the city, and sophisticated Sydney becomes closer to its roots than it sometimes feels. In the summer, the city’s hot offices are abandoned for the remarkably unspoilt beaches strung around the eastern and northern suburbs.

It’s also as beautiful a city as any in the world, with a setting that perhaps only Rio de Janeiro can rival: the water is what makes it so special, and no introduction to Sydney would be complete without paying tribute to one of the world’s great harbours. Port Jackson is a sunken valley which twists inland to meet the fresh water of the Parramatta River; in the process it washes into a hundred coves and bays, winds around rocky points, flows past the small harbour islands, slips under bridges and laps at the foot of the Opera House. If Sydney is seen at its gleaming best from the deck of a harbour ferry, especially at weekends when the harbour’s jagged jaws fill with a flotilla of small vessels, racing yachts and cabin cruisers, it’s seen at its most varied in its lively neighbourhoods. Getting away from the city centre and exploring them is an essential part of Sydney’s pleasures.

It might seem surprising that Sydney is not Australia’s capital: the creation of Canberra in 1927 – intended to stem the intense rivalry between Sydney and Melbourne – has not affected the view of many Sydneysiders that their city remains the true capital of Australia, and certainly in many ways it feels like it. The city has a tangible sense of history: the old stone walls and well-worn steps in the backstreets around The Rocks are an evocative reminder that Sydney has more than two hundred years of white history behind it.

Sydney is considered by some to be one of the more beautiful cities in the world and hence its nickname the “Emerald City”. At least this much is certain – it is the pride of Australia and definitely the country’s most vibrant, thriving, and cosmopolitan cities. Economically, its nickname as the “Queen of the Pacific Rim” stems from its importance as a financial center for the Asia-Pacific Region. And since it played host to the 2000 Olympic Games, Sydney’s global profile has been on the rise. Visit Sydney today and you’ll find a booming center of business, art, fashion, design, and cuisine. You’ll also find lush green parks, large open spaces, gold beaches, inland waterways, views of the Blue Mountains, unique architectural styles, excellent restaurants, first-rate shopping, and fine museums and galleries.

Sydney is perhaps most famous for its iconic Opera House. It is one of the most recognized structures ever built. It stands with its shell-like curves on Sydney Cove overlooking the sparkling blue waters of Sydney Harbour. The Opera House, however, is not just all looks and no substance. It plays host to many touring ballet, theatrical, and musical productions as well as conferences, weddings, and parties.

Sydney is also famous for its signature Sydney Harbour Bridge with its famed arch-design. Colloquially referred to as the “Coathanger”, this bridge is the world’s largest steel arch and widest long-span bridge. If you’re into climbing, you can actually take a tour and climb the southern half of the bridge, starting your ascent from the eastern side of the arch and descending down the western side. The entire ordeal takes a long three hours and a half, but every minute of it is pure fun. After all, how many other landmarks let you touch, grab, hold, and imprint your dirty feet all over?

Darling Harbour is another notable Sydney attraction. Close by the Opera House and Harbour Bridge, this harbour is a very touristy area. At Darling, you’ll find a few museums like the Australian National Maritime Museum and the Powerhouse Museum as well as the Sydney Aquarium. And while shoppers can hit the seafood and flea markets of Paddy’s, gamblers can hit up the Star City Casino. There are also a few restaurants, cafes, and bars for those who just want to sit and relax.

Naturally, there are also dozens of beaches in Sydney if you want to tan, swim, surf, or just stroll. Bondi, Tamarama, Bronte, Manly, Cronulla, and Wattamulla are all popular beaches. Bondi is famed for its three kilometer coastal walk that actually takes you to other beaches like Bronte, Coogee, and Tamarama. Along the way, you can pick up some fish and chips, ice cream, or popsicles as you pass by some of the stalls. And if you like ferry rides, you can take one that will float you to Manly beach. The view of the harbour during the trip out is breathtaking.

While Sydney is definitely a worthwhile place to vacation, it is also not the cheapest. It ranks as the most expensive city in Australia and the 19th most expensive in the world. But if you compare it to the New Yorks and the Londons, Sydney is definitely a better value proposition. With that in mind, hopefully you’ll find it easier to stomach the cash outflow that will be needed to realize the Sydney experience.

Melbourne is neither Australia’s largest city nor political capital, but its claim as the nation’s cultural Mecca is undeniable. The city boasts several art galleries, museums, and festivals, and plays host to major international concerts, exhibitions, sporting events, and theatrical productions. In Australia, Melbourne enjoys the reputation of being at the forefront of cuisine, shopping, fashion, music, sports, and nightlife. And its counterculture, arts community, and café scene are alive and well. Stroll the leafy streets and you’ll also get to see Melbourne’s Victorian-ear architecture and modern skyscrapers, delight in the magnificently landscaped parks and gardens along the way, and observe in appreciation the myriad ethnic communities that are flourishing in this cosmopolitan city – from the Greeks, Italians, Lebanese, and Jewish to the Chinese and Vietnamese.

The City Centre is perhaps Melbourne’s most touristy hotspot. Here, you’ll not only find the Melbourne Aquarium as well as a host of museums, cathedrals and Victorian buildings, but you’ll also find the sexy Eureka Tower, which is the tallest residential building in the world and recently completed in October, 2006. The City Centre is also home to the Parliament House of Victoria, the original seat of the Australian federal government before it moved to Canberra. If you’re into shopping or would like a snack or meal, you can head over to the docklands by the waterfront, where you’ll not only find a stadium but a precinct of shops, restaurants, and bars. The Queen Victoria Market is also in the City Centre. It is the largest open-air market in the Southern Hemisphere, selling everything from clothes and souvenir items to fresh fruits, meats, and seafood. And even if you’re not a big fan of Chinese food, it might be worth your while to hit up Chinatown. The streets and buildings here have not changed much since the 19th century when the Melbourne gold rush brought waves of people to the city.

If you want to enjoy the outdoors, you can head over to St. Kilda, Melbourne’s beachside suburb. You’ll find piers, esplanades, parks, and botanical gardens here, and you’ll be able to walk, fish, rollerblade, sunbathe, or just relax and soak in the beautiful scenery.

Melbourne also holds a few festivals each year, including the Melbourne International Comedy Festival in April, the Moomba during Labor Day weekend in May, the Melbourne Fringe Festival in late September, and the Melbourne International Arts Festival in October. So, if you’re into comedies, family activities, fringe plays, or art, you might want to time your visit accordingly.

People in Melbourne are also sports-mad. The city is known as the sports capital of Australia. Melbourne is the home of the popular Australian Football League, the Australian Grand Prix, the Australian Tennis Open (in January), and the Melbourne Cup (in November), an annual thoroughbred horse race “that stops a nation”. Even if you are not into sports, it is worth going to an Aussie Rules Football match at the Melbourne Cricket Ground to experience the raucous crowd atmosphere. And if you happen to be in town while the Australian Tennis Open or Melbourne Cup is taking place, you should make an effort to attend, as both are once-in-a-lifetime experiences.

MELBOURNE is Australia’s second-largest city, with a population of 3.4 million, around half a million less than Sydney. Rivalry between the two cities – in every sphere from cricket to business – is on an almost childish level. In purely monetary terms, Sydney is now clearly in the ascendancy, having stolen a march on Melbourne as the nation’s financial centre. However, as Melburnians never tire of pointing out, they have the incredible good fortune to inhabit what is often described as “one of the world’s most liveable cities”, and while Melbourne may lack a truly stunning natural setting or in-your-face sights, its subtle charms grow on all who spend time here, making it an undeniably pleasant place to live, and enjoyable to visit, too.

In many ways, Melbourne is the most European of all Australian cities: magnificent landscaped gardens and parks in the English style provide green spaces near the centre, while beneath the skyscrapers of the Central Business District (CBD), an understorey of solid, Victorian-era facades ranged along tree-lined boulevards present the city on a more human scale. The European influence is perhaps most obvious in winter, as trams rattle past warm cafés and bookshops, and promenaders dress stylishly against the chill. Not that Europe has supplied the city’s only influences: large-scale immigration since World War II has shaken up the city’s formerly self-absorbed, parochial WASP mindset for good. Whole villages have come here from Lebanon, Turkey, Vietnam and all over Europe, most especially from Greece, furnishing the well-worn statistic that Melbourne is the third-largest Greek city behind Athens and Thessaloniki. Not surprisingly, the immigrant blend has transformed the city into a foodie mecca, where tucking into a different cuisine each night – or new hybrids of East, West and South – is one of the great treats.

Melbourne’s strong claim to being the nation’s cultural capital is well founded: laced with a healthy dash of counterculture, Melbourne’s artistic life flourishes, culminating in the highbrow Melbourne Festival in the last two weeks in October, and its slightly more offbeat (and shoestring) cousin, the Fringe Festival. The city also takes pride in its leading role in Australian literary life, based around the Writers’ Festival in August. Throughout the year, there are heavyweight seasons of classical music and theatre, a wacky array of small galleries, and enough art-house movies to last a lifetime. Sport too, especially Australian Rules Football, is almost a religion here, while the Melbourne Cup in November is a public holiday, celebrated with gusto.

Melbourne boasts a reasonably cool climate (although January and February are prone to barbaric hot spells when temperatures can climb into the forties).

Although its lack of urban grime creates a favourable first impression, it’s hard to get too excited about PERTH. Western Australia’s modern capital of 1.5 million people has a reputation for sunshine, youthfulness and an easy-going lifestyle – after work, people often go sailing or swimming. It is perhaps because of this complacency that Perth lacks the substance and charisma, and the tension, of diverse wealth and ethnicity, that make a really great city something more than just a group of modern skyscrapers and people enjoying the good life.

In the 1980s mineral prosperity and a spate of cocky, self-made wheeler-dealers (now largely bankrupt or disgraced) set off a mini-boom which continues with development almost for development’s sake. But although upbeat campaigns have managed to attract some people back into the city centre outside office hours, apart from shopping and some museums and galleries, the CBD has little to offer tourists bar the adjacent restaurant and club district of Northbridge. If you’re looking for action, imitate the locals and head for the hills, the beaches, the western suburbs of Leederville, Subiaco, Claremont and Cottesloe, or cruise on down to the port of Fremantle, 20km from Perth.

In 1912 Walter Burley Griffin, an American landscape architect from Chicago, won the international competition for the design of the future Australian capital: his plan envisaged a garden city for about 25,000 people, which took into account the natural features of the landscape. There were to be five main centres, each with separate city functions, located on three axes: land, water and municipal. Roads were to be in concentric circles, with arcs linking the radiating design. Construction started in 1913, but political squabbling and the effects of World War I prevented any real progress being made. Little building had been done, in fact, by the time Griffin left the site in 1920, and only in 1927 was the provisional parliament building officially opened. By 1930 some one thousand families had settled in the capital. Then the Depression set in, World War II broke out and development slowed again. After more years of stagnation, the National Capital Development Commission (NCDC) was finally established in 1958, and at last growth began in earnest.

In 1963 the Molonglo River was dammed to form a lake 11km wide, the artificial Lake Burley Griffin that is the centrepiece of modern CANBERRA. Numerous open spaces and public buildings came into existence, as a real city started to emerge. Slowly, the Civic Centre near London Circuit began to live up to its name. The population grew rapidly, from fifteen thousand in 1947 to over one hundred thousand in 1967; today, it is more than three hundred thousand. This population growth has been accommodated in satellite towns with their own centres: Woden, 12km south of the Civic Centre, was built in the mid-1960s; five years later Belconnen was added in the northwest; and in the mid-1970s Tuggeranong in the south. It was this sprawl that fostered Canberra’s image as “a cluster of suburbs in search of a centre”.

Inevitably, modern Canberra is mainly a city of civil servants and administrators. There are plenty of service industries – especially ones aimed at feeding and watering all those politicians and visitors – but little real industrial activity. Canberra gained self-government in 1989, with only the Parliamentary Triangle – the area bounded by Commonwealth Avenue, Kings Avenue and Lake Burley Griffin – remaining under federal control; the self-financing responsibilities that this entails have placed a premium on tourism revenues. And indeed, the main reason to come to Canberra is for the national mus-eums and institutions you can visit – top of the list is the National Gallery, and the stunning New Parliament House, opened in 1988 and certainly one of the principal tourist sights, with its original architecture intended to blend into the landscape. Canberra is also trying very hard to present an image to counter its reputation as the domain of dull bureaucrats. It hasn’t succeeded yet: most Australians still regard Canberra as “pollie city” – a frosty, boring place where politicians and public servants live it up at the expense of the hard-done-by Australian taxpayer. They also complain about its concentric circular streets, which can make driving here seem like a Kafkaesque nightmare, and about the contrived, neat-as-a-pin nature of the place.

But the image-makers have a point, and Canberra is a far more pleasant place than it’s usually given credit for. The city has wide open spaces and many parks and gardens, with the impressive architecture housing the national institutions set in astonishingly well-groomed surroundings, so that you can pad barefoot through the grass from the National Gallery to the National Library, peacefully admiring the gum trees. Right on its doorstep are forests and bushland, with unspoilt wilderness just a bit further afield in the Brindabella Ranges and the Namadgi National Park; skiing in the Snowy Mountains or surfing on the coast are only a few hours away. Sadly, in late 2002, this natural bush setting, combined with extreme drought conditions, precipitated Canberra’s worst bushfires for fifty years. The area to the west of the city was hardest hit. Mount Stromlo Observatory was completely gutted and in all over five hundred homes were destroyed and four residents were left dead. Remarkably, though the CBD was covered in a pall of smoke for several weeks, none of its buildings was damaged by the fires.

Canberra’s nightlife is also a great deal better than you might expect considering its reputation, in term time at least: the two universities here (and the Duntroon Military Academy for officer material) mean there’s a large and lively student population (good news for those who have student cards, as most attractions offer hefty discounts). The city is said to have more restaurants per capita than any other in Australia – which is saying something – and there are plenty of pubs and nightclubs to choose from, too. Many of them, though, are tucked away in hidden corners of the city or in the satellite towns. Surprisingly perhaps, Canberra also holds the dubious title of Australia’s porn capital, due to its liberal licensing laws, which legalize and regulate the sex industry.

Cutting dramatically through lush coastal plains, the Brisbane River coils like a snake around the cosmopolitan chic of Queensland’s unique sub-tropical capital. Developed as a penal colony in 1824, the city spent years in the shadow of its southern neighbors. However, following the Commonwealth Games and Expo in the 1980s, investment skyrocketed, cementing Brisbane’s future as a place of wealth, beauty and excitement.

Brisbane’s architecture is a mix of the modern and the old with impressive Renaissance style and timber Queenslander dwellings sharing a berth with the modern giants. Despite being close to the ocean, this is very much a river city, and the footpaths and waterways are a delightful way to explore this majestic metropolis.

Central Business District

Dominated by the impressive City Hall , Brisbane’s business center is a remarkable dichotomy of style. Unlike other Australian cities, the life of the central area does not fade with the sunset. Bars and clubs swell with numbers, attracting large crowds with entertainment each night. The spectacular Conrad Treasury Casino looms proudly over the river, whilst Queen Street Mall ’s garnished modern decor greets shoppers, diners and people-watchers with open arms. Built in 1828, the Old Windmill and Observatory are some of Brisbane’s oldest buildings and Parliament House , built to French Renaissance style in 1868, is a classic example of the city’s historical prowess.

South Bank Parklands

If you cannot go to the beach, then the beach must come to you. The South Bank is a true wonder of ambitious modern design. With a large swimming area and sandy beach, escaping from the city is means a 30-second ferry ride. The nearly 40 acres of parkland include some of Brisbane’s finest restaurants and cafes, and its own rainforest boardwalk. The popular South Bank Markets are held on Friday evenings, Saturdays and Sundays. The atrium snakes its way through the Parklands from the Queensland Cultural Centre, which houses the Performing Arts Complex , Queensland Museum , Queensland Art Gallery and State Library .

Riverside District

Mirroring the diversity of the South Bank , this city side complex is dissected by a lazy walkway, curving its way past the City Botanical Gardens , and hugging the foreshore with its traditional timber jetties and visiting touring yachts. Eagle Street Pier is the wining and dining area, while the Riverside Centre hosts a huge Sunday Craft Market . Standing proud among its modern neighbors, Customs House is a glorious building, providing a timely reminder of the area’s vibrant heritage.

Fortitude Valley & Chinatown

Depart the river at the engaging New Farm Park, and the walk toward Fortitude Valley could take you an age if you choose to wine, dine and shop your way through the broad spectrum of styles. In Brisbane’s vibrant Chinatown , a bewildering selection of Asian cuisine swamps the senses with local shopkeepers contributing to the enchantment of this true Asian hideaway.

The Valley offers similar diversity but does it with a brash energetic style for fun loving, nightlife seekers. Originally unfortunate enough to be considered a bad area, this is now Brisbane’s alternative Mecca. For a one location night out, Dooley’s Hotel has become a cult favorite.

Kangaroo Point & Woolloongabba

The elder statesman of Brisbane suburbs, Kangaroo Point , is the place to gaze in awe at the city’s dramatic views. Cast in the shadow of the imposing Story Bridge , the Point’s impressive sandstone cliffs dominate the foreshore. With the area transforming into a dynamic residential enclave, the demand for cafes and restaurants has grown rapidly. Kangaroo Point rivals South Bank in style as it strives to become the south side’s new home for fine dining.

The Gabba (Woolloongabba), gateway to the Gold Coast and southeast, has earned an international reputation as the location of the Brisbane Cricket Ground , home of the Brisbane Lions Football Team .

Milton, Paddington & Rosalie

These west side suburbs offer a change of pace from the frantic energy of the Valley. In Milton, Park Road ’s mock Eiffel Tower calls the discerning visitor to the city’s most fashionable pavement cafe precinct. Rosalie Village, nestled in the western hills, conjures up visions of a small European community, with fine dining or relaxed, inexpensive fare available al fresco throughout the year. For the eccentric or exotic, Paddington’s Latrobe Street has a selection of hidden gem restaurants, galleries and boutiques encased in colorful Queenslander cottages.

Around the Bay

Within an hour’s drive of Brisbane’s downtown, the wonders of Moreton Bay provide the day-tripper with unequaled delights. Before leaving the mainland, a visit to the charming Manly Harbour is a must. A mix of the new and traditional, this is the East Coast’s largest pleasure boat marina, and home to good food and shopping.

A short trip ferry trip to Moreton Island reveals a realm of sand dunes (the world’s highest coastal dunes), dolphins and four-wheel drive adventures. Whether you choose to stay at the plush Tangalooma Wild Dolphin Resort or just camp along the beach, Moreton Island is a kaleidoscope of natural wonder.

North Stradbroke Island (Straddie to the locals), a stone’s throw from the mainland, is a Queensland treasure, providing an escape to paradise without the long trip. Within the National Park, Tortoise Lagoon and the ‘Window’ Blue Lake are spectacular.

With a bridge connecting Bribie Island with the mainland, this is the most accessible destination to see the fauna-rich waters of the Bay without getting your feet wet. Diving, fishing and relaxing are the order of the day on this lively, well-populated island, and a visit to the wonderful Abbey Museum is essential.

Brisbane’s self-promotion as Australia’s “most livable city” may have been used before, but it is absolutely true. Spending time wandering Brisbane’s districts will bring you to the realization that this city is Australia’s true capital of leisure, jaunty style and good living.

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